Climbing in Sardinia
Climbing is art and discipline at the same time. To the inattentive eye, rock is nothing but rock, but just like a painter or sculptor, the climber reads the wall to follow the most beautiful line. The verticality, the landscape, the solitude and the challenge with oneself are an all-inner conquest rather than a victory to show. Sinuous movements lead to the summit only if you are prepared to face the commitment. Hence climbing becomes a discipline understood as voluntary submission to the laws of physics, government of one's instincts, domination over emotions, impulses and desires. Where the desired result does not arrive, it is in the continuous search for oneself that one must aspire.
The ancients undoubtedly crossed entire mountain ranges in search of animals to hunt and fertile lands to cultivate, could it perhaps be called climbing to sculpt entire necropolises suspended in the heart of the rock? The ancient Greeks and Romans considered the ascent to be a divine path. To reach the temples in China one had to cross steep and dangerous rock passages, they considered the highest point a gateway to the otherworldly world. King Philip of Macedonia climbed Elmo, Petrarch made an ascent of Mont Ventoux, Leonardo da Vinci made trips to the Grigne and Monte Rosa. We have to wait for the 18th century for the Enlightenment to bring curiosity from the living rooms to the mountains, the exploratory journeys began. In the 1900s the summit had to be conquered at all costs and with any tool, but style and spirit soon became more important, respecting the naturalness of the route. During the Second World War it became an affirmation of the self again.
While in the United States of the fifties climbing on the granites of Yosemite was rampant, in Europe English climbers promoted the continuous search for new routes as they did not have them available on their own land. In Italy the first documented ascent of Mont Blanc dates back to 1786 officially for scientific purposes. The Alps were still considered wild and unknown places, the men and women who from 1840 to 1890 would have conquered all the peaks were considered heroes out of the ordinary.
When Quintino Sella climbed Monviso consequently in 1863 the CAI was born.
Travel to Sardinia
Quintino Sella is now leading us to Sardinia. He arrived on the island in 1869 and crossed it on horseback to evaluate and investigate the conditions of the Sardinian mining industry. Those were years of great changes. General Della Marmora had already explored, triangulated, mapped all the peaks of Sardinia. The tallest, Perdas Crapìas, will be named after him.
If we exclude the mountaineering Shepherds out of necessity, for climbing in Sardinia, things go a little slower. Already because the shepherds who dedicated their lives to the mountains and flocks, especially in Supramonte, did not use ropes or tools, they used to cross saddlebags on their shoulders, sheer walls and deep Baccus (gorges), Troccus (jumps, precipices ), sometimes with the help of Ishalas 'e fustes (wooden stairs), juniper trunks across or leaning to facilitate climbing in the most difficult passages.
In fact, we have to wait for 1921, when Guido Cibrario climbed the hills of Monte Limbara and Aggius in passages that still cannot be considered climbing. In 1944 a group of Alpini with Vittorio Cesa De Marchi climbed the west-south-west face and west ridge of Punta Jacu Ruju at Oliena. Over the years attempts have been made but not yet by the locals.
In 1973 Alessandro Partel and his companions set up multi-pitch routes in Sardinia, although it was not considered mountainous there is room to venture up walls not much lower than the Dolomite ones on an excellent quality limestone, Monte Oddeu, the Cusidore.
From here on it will be a succession of explorations, between Capo Caccia, Capo Testa, the Supramonte of Dorgali and the granites of Southern Sardinia, the Sette Fratelli, Villacidro and the incredible cliffs overlooking the sea of Masua and Cagliari. The approach changes, from boots to shoes, from mountaineering to pitons.
Today in Sardinia
Whether it's limestone or granite, you are spoiled for choice with sport or multi-pitch climbing routes, it is possible to climb all year round by assessing the exposure of the routes and you always choose well because the hospitality, the good food and culture will be your splendid setting. Is there a reason why people live longer in Sardinia?
The best times to climb are undoubtedly spring and autumn but since there are no more mid-seasons we can say that from March to July and from September to December you can climb without problems by choosing the right rock. In the warmer periods you can choose the combination of sea and cliff, in the colder ones you will choose the sunniest faces. There are many published guides describing the infinite climbing routes, constantly monitored and renewed in the protections.
The best areas where you can climb at best are for us:
- Sulcis Iglesias. The limestones of Domusnovas, Iglesias, the hamlets of Nebida and Masua, Fluminimaggiore and Buggerru, are undoubtedly the favorite destination for those based in Cagliari. The crags of the Sella del Diavolo in Cagliari have been the training ground for all climbers in Southern Sardinia. In many spots it is possible to climb with a fascinating view of the sea.
- Ogliastra. From the villages of Ulassai and Osini you can walk to the most beautiful cliffs, in the hottest periods, when putting on climbing shoes is unthinkable elsewhere, here you can climb in the shade with the certainty of meeting many enthusiasts without forgetting good food and good wine.
- Supramonte. The Supramonte is vast, but that of Dorgali and Oliena allows you to reach the most beautiful routes by limiting travel and entering an island within an island.
- Gallura. Gallura is influenced by the wind, the sea, the water, and the granites of Northern Sardinia are a great challenge to face.
- Other single spots to enjoy during the day can be that of Isili, Villacidro, Villasimius, Capo Pecora, on which everyone is worth trying.
Now that you know more about climbing in Sardinia, are you ready to venture with us?